by Devon Portney

(Photo: courtesy The Castello Plan)

It’s very easy to walk right past the small, understated wine and tapas bar on the corner of Argyle and Cortelyou roads. Catching site first of the large glass vase filled with corks, then the zinc sign reading The Castello Plan, I realized I had found the right place.

(Photo, Restaurant interior, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

While small, the interior is very inviting.  Dimly lit and quite romantic, there are tables to accommodate couples or small groups. One of the best seats in the house is at what first appears to be the bar, but upon closer inspection is actually a petite, open kitchen. Not only can you watch chef Natasha Pogrebinsky create her beautiful and delicious cuisine, you can arrange to have a wine tasting and food pairing, hosted by Pegrebinsky and co-owner, Ben Heemskerk.

(Photo: Outdoor seating, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

If the weather’s warm, take advantage of the pleasant evening and sit outside. The outdoor seating area can seat about 20-25 people, keeping it quiet and quaint. Rather than a patio, the area is a wooden deck, with high wood slatted walls. Even with the traffic on Cortelyou Road whizzing by, the atmosphere remains relaxed and serene.

(Photo: Chilled cucumber salad, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

I began with a chilled cucumber salad, served with dill, crème fraiche, and an apple slaw. It was piled in a delicious looking pyramid and it was almost a shame to dig in. It was also quite large for a tapas portion, easily being enough of a pre-dinner salad for two people.

The next dish was recommended by Heemskerk: smoked sprats. Ever heard of sprats? Neither had I. They are a small fish, similar to a sardine. Pogrebinsky smokes them Latvian style and puts them on fresh toast with small eggs and lemon. When brought to my table I eyed them suspiciously, but low and behold, they were delicious. The fish were a little oily, but not too salty or “fishy” tasting. Together with the bread and egg it was unexpectedly but delightfully yummy.

(Photo: Duck confit, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

My main course was an amazing duck confit with perfectly roasted fingerling potatoes and a sharply flavored cabbage slaw. The duck was light, flavorful and soft enough to melt in my mouth.

Dinner was enjoyed with a glass of a sauvignon blanc/chardonnay blend. I am usually not a chardonnay fan, but since the ratio was 70/30 I took the chance. It was the perfect blend of light fruit flavors with a tart, oakey finish. Castello Plan offers over 100 wines by the bottle, and 25 by the glass. Heemskerk buys as many specialty and limited edition wines as he can, which facilitates a changing wine by the glass menu each week.

Castello Plan does not have a full bar, but does have an extensive beer menu if you’re not a wine drinker. Heemskerk is not afraid to display a little bias – his roots are Belgian and so is all the beer.  Several beers on the menu are only available in one or two other locations in all of Brooklyn. There are brews ranging from 5-9% alcohol volume, and Heemskerk chooses each one personally, making sure the beer is not only unique and delicious, but will pare well with Pogrebinsky’s distinctive cuisine.

(Photo: Chocoate espresso cups, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

What good is fine cuisine without something sweet to finish? I was fortunate to try two of Pogrebinsky’s desserts: sweet potato pie, and chocolate espresso cups. The sweet potato pie was not your typical kind; this was a baked sweet potato patty, topped with whipped sweet potato “icing”, garnished with walnuts and a ginger lime cream sauce. To say it was phenomenal would be an understatement.  The chocolate espresso cups were made with… you guessed it: Belgian chocolate. Small, petite, marbled chocolate cups held a thick, hazelnut espresso chocolate, sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts. The dessert is small simply because it is so rich—and delectable.

(Photo: Sweet potato pie, courtesy of The Castello Plan)

After finishing the incredible meal, I sat back and enjoyed the last of my wine with the sounds of quiet conversation and mild neighborhood noises. Aside from the great food, Castello Plan offers a relaxing, laid back dining atmosphere that is a welcome break from a monotonous work week. Whether you’re looking for a casual, delicious meal during the week, a romantic weekend dining experience, or a friendly glass of wine while you’re out and about in Ditmas Park, The Castello Plan can accommodate your needs.

The Castello Plan | 1213 Cortelyou Road, b/w Westminster/Argyle Road | Ditmas Park