Story and photos by Devon Portney

Opening a new restaurant in Park Slope can be tricky, because there is plenty of stiff competition. But since its opening on May 11, 2010, Fornino has hit the ground running – with a unique, affordable menu, in a beautiful setting.

Executive chef, owner, and resident artist Francis Ayoub has returned to his restaurant roots at Fornino. Previously a co-owner of the space’s last restaurant, Cucina, Ayoub has an intimate understanding of the massive space on the corner of Fifth Avenue and Carroll Street. As a glass artist, Ayoub brought much of his work to the dining room, in the form of amazing light fixtures and hanging sculptures. He also made all the glass table tops, which encase pages and pages of old newspapers from 1919-1939. Ayoub decided first on the theme of Brooklyn, and then on “old” Brooklyn. Aside from the tables covered in historical newspapers, and the décor being simple and understated, black and white pictures of Brooklyn hang on the walls of the dining room. Just over our table was a picture of that street corner in 1948. There are many others, including a picture of Prospect Park, covered in hundreds of tennis nets, creating a whole park full of tennis courts.

(Watermelon salad)

As for the menu, it is classically Italian with a modern flair. The brunch menu is quite extensive and diverse, something you don’t see very much anymore. We began with a watermelon salad, which included both pink and yellow watermelon, served with arugula, olive tapenade, and shaved ricotta salada. It was without a doubt, the most delicious, refreshing way to start brunch on a sweltering summer day. After much deliberation over the list of entrees, I decided on one of several frittatas: asparagus and fontina. It was light and delicious, with orange and red cherry tomatoes, and a side of home fried potatoes with sautéed peppers.

(Asparagus and Fontina Frittata)

My dining partner decided on one of the many breakfast pizzas. Yes, I said breakfast pizza. Taking a cue from its delectable dinner menu, Fornino offers many breakfast pizzas. He chose the bacon and eggs pizza, which was served sunny side up, with crisp Applewood bacon, melted cheese, and garnished with fresh cilantro. There were also pizzas with fresh vegetables, mushrooms with truffle oil, and smoked salmon. The menu also offers some brunch classics with a twist, like eggs benedict with prosciutto, or pancakes with ricotta cheese and fresh fruit. There are mimosas and bloody marys available, as well as a full bar, beer, and wine.

(Bacon and egg pizza)

For dessert we tried the lemon tart, which looked like a giant slice of gorgeous cheesecake. It was light, and sweet, and yes, tart, served in a cookie crust with whipped cream on the side. While we slowly munched on dessert, we noticed the front of the dining room was blocked off with a removable barrier. Our server explained that they were hosting a graduation brunch. It looked like an excellent small party venue. The restaurant had set up brunch items in buffet style, and brought out family style entrees for the tables. Fornino also has a private room, which can hold about twenty people.

The restaurant can seat 150 people, which is not a lot considering how large the space is. But I did notice how uncluttered the dining room seemed, and how much room was between the tables. Not only does this allow everyone to enjoy more privacy, but it enables Fornino to easily accommodate large parties when necessary.

While I let my amazing brunch digest I perused the dinner menu. With the exception of a delectable looking truffle pizza, not one item is over $20. The dinner menu has a large antipasti list, including sheep’s milk ricotta with honey, onion goat cheese, and an olive tart. The entrée menu offers eclectic dishes, such as braised short rib ravioli, and prosciutto wrapped cod. And of course, there is an incredible selection of pizzas, including the vongole, with manila clams, crescenza, parmesan, and mozzarella cheeses, and garlic and herbs; or the gorgonzola, with gorgonzola and mozzarella cheeses, dried figs, and arugula.

There’s a second Fornino location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, but don’t get confused! This Fornino is not just another pizza place. If you’re looking for a unique and diverse menu, with ambiance to boot, you’ve found it at Fornino Park Slope.

Fornino | 256 Fifth Avenue, at Carroll Street | Park Slope | R train to Union Street